Is it a pub? The steps, the pillars, the architrave and the carved Roman lettering of The Portico Library on Mosley Street, Manchester, proclaim 19th-century Liberalism and gravitas. But above the entrance it declares itself to be “The Bank”. The noise is social. No books are visible. Where has The Portico Library & Gallery gone? In a side wall there is a discreet but heavy black door, and above it a plaque; and on the plaque: “Portico Library — 1806 — Thomas Harrison architect — (1744-1829). Richard Cobden, John Dalton, Elizabeth Gaskell, Sir Robert Peel, Thomas de Quincy, Peter Mark Roget were readers here.” The doorbell has a brass rim, polished to a gloss.

It’s not a pub. It’s a speakeasy. A metal box squawks when the bell is pressed, and an answering squawk from the visitor produces a buzz, the door clicks open, and we enter a great library.

It doesn’t look like a great library. The only way forward is up a steep and winding narrow stair, lit by indifferent windows. The effect is claustrophobic: nothing behind, nothing in front, up and up, for 30 stone steps.

At the top there is no library, but a kitchen. It is the domain of Muriel, who dispenses food of every kind, pots of tea and coffee, and wines. The hungry or thirsty visitor may place an order and proceed. Then, at last, almost an afterthought, another door and beyond is the library.

It is a wondrous space: a coloured glass dome and delicate plasterwork above a cavern of a room; its walls soar with book stacks, labelled in faded gold: “Polite Literature”, “Biography”, “Voyages and Travels”, “Fine Arts”. In dark alcoves, with dark chairs and tables, the glow of the brass fittings seems to give out more light than the lamps. The shelves hold hernia-inducing, dusty volumes. A corridor leads to the Reading Room.

The Reading Room is smaller; which makes the books appear to soar further. The quiet is as gentle as the dust: a quiet that only books can give. Muriel brings lunch and wine. Here is outside Time. An M. R. James story could be filmed in this world. “National Treasure” is much overused; but, if there is such a thing, then The Portico is it.

Competition

The Portico Library is almost 200 years old. To celebrate, there will be a dinner at the Yang Sing restaurant in Manchester on November 17 — and The Times has three pairs of tickets to give away. The winners will sit on a table with Erica Wagner, the Times literary editor, and the novelist Alan Garner. The acclaimed authors Howard Jacobson, Juliet Barker and Sarah Dunant will be speaking afterwards. To enter, answer the questions in Hot Type.

Explore Books

• Book Extracts

• Book Reviews

• Books Group

• Audio Books

Times Recommends

• Jane Bussman's Top 10 journalism tips
• The Secret Royals: illegitimate children of British monarchs
• The 10 Best Lady Detectives