Michael Jackson’s style was as influential as his music. His showmanship extended to his wardrobe and he never broke character. He understood the visual language of clothes as well as any fashion designer, and he used his costumes to communicate on a grand scale.

His signatures did not come about by accident: the white socks and sparkly glove ensured that the vast audiences who flocked to see him could clearly follow his fancy footwork and sharp dance moves. Throughout the 1980s and 1990s, he cleverly established a fashion vocabulary that was as instantly recognisable as any of his hits. The tipped fedora, military insignia, elaborate crystal-embellished jackets and impenetrable aviators were all shorthand for Jackson’s particular brand of global superstardom. He didn’t flit between trends or try on different personas as Madonna does, and because he stuck so emphatically to his signatures, his look became iconic.

No wonder his style resonates with young designers, many of whom grew up with his music. Today, it’s women who hanker after Jackson’s signature look more than men. Perhaps this is not surprising, given the elaborate showiness of his clothes. Jackson understood and exploited the power of glamour as much as his great friend Elizabeth Taylor does, and he certainly shared her love of jewellery.

The most obvious high-fashion tribute comes from the Balmain designer Christophe Decarnin, who re-created Jackson’s glittering military jackets and cropped trousers for his spring catwalk show. The entertainer must have been flattered. Earlier this year, he was spotted leaving hospital in one of the Balmain jackets that he’d inspired. Costing a whopping £11,000, it could also be seen as a tribute to Jackson’s famous extravagance as well as his style.

Other Jackson looks have found their way onto the catwalks. Stella McCartney has referenced the sequined jackets he wore during his Off the Wall period, and high-street versions of the look can be found in Miss Selfridge. The studded belts, boots and skinny jeans of his Bad era have also influenced a host of younger designers, including the hip New Yorker Alexander Wang. His penny loafers, worn most recently by Alexa Chung, and huge aviator sunglasses are key spring/summer accessories. Jackson’s signature fedora has also come back into fashion. Kate Moss hides from the paparazzi under hers. Well, if it worked for Michael ...

Military man

The military look — with lashings of gold embroidery and sequins — was one of Jacko’s most compelling and copied styles. Balmain paid tribute and Rihanna tried the look. Jackson himself wore this Balmain jacket on a hospital visit earlier this year.

Hat tricks

Jackson had the ability to take a simple fashion item and invest it with iconic status. His tilted fedora is a good example. It became more than simply a hat. It was an extension of the man and of his dancing. He used it to create drama. The look is now popular with Kate Moss, who uses hers to hide from photographers.

The Bad days

For the Bad album, Jackson toughened up his image with masses of belts, buckles, studs and straps, but it was always more glam than intimidating. Mary-Kate Olsen wears the Givenchy version of the Bad look.

1990s glitter

Jackson and sparkles go hand in hand. He loved to shine and was one of the first to wear clothes entirely encrusted with Swarovski crystals. His look inspired this Antonio Berardi catwalk style. Today, sequins work for day and evening wear.

Thriller

The flamboyant red leather jacket Jackson wore in the Thriller video is one of his most memorable looks. It wasn’t so much the colour or the style that were important, but the way he wore it, with the sleeves pushed up past his elbows. With that simple styling tick, he set a trend that lasted a decade.

Billie Jean tux

Jackson’s contemporary take on the tuxedo was groundbreaking. Made from black leather and worn with a pink shirt and red bow tie, it allowed men to approach evening looks in a less conventional way. The look has been replicated on the YSL catwalk.

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