If you can’t be bothered to make your own pastry, feel free to use a bought shortcrust instead.

Serves 6

For the pastry

180g plain flour

Pinch of salt

90g cold butter, cut into small cubes

1 egg yolk

For the filling

2 sprigs of thyme (one for decoration)

350g crab meat, including at least 100g brown

170ml double cream

2 egg yolks

1 tsp dijon mustard

2 tbsp chopped chives

Good pinch of cayenne

Salt and pepper

1 tbsp grated parmesan

Pinch of saffron

First, make the pastry. In a food processor, whizz together the flour, salt and butter for 5 seconds. Add the egg yolk and pulse for 2 seconds. Now add 2 tbsp cold water and pulse for 2-3 seconds more.

The mixture should start to form larger clods. If it doesn’t, add 1 tbsp more water and pulse in. Squidge a bit of the pastry with your hands — it should come together into a coherent mass.

Tip it onto a work surface and quickly press together with your hands to make a ball, then shape into a sausage shape about 4cm across. Wrap in clingfilm and chill in the fridge for 1 hour. Slice off pieces about ¼cm thick, then lay them in the bottom and sides of a 23cm tart tin with a removable base. Press the pieces together with your fingers until the joins have disappeared and the tin is lined with a thin, even layer of pastry. Prick the bottom all over with a fork, trim the rim with a knife, then return to the fridge for 1 hour. Put a baking sheet in the oven and preheat to 180C/350F/Gas Mark 4. Place the lined tart tin on the baking sheet and bake for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, shred the leaves from one sprig of thyme into a bowl and add the remaining filling ingredients, apart from the parmesan and saffron. Season generously and mix well.

Remove the tart case from the oven on the baking tray. Pour in the cream and crab mixture, then scatter with the parmesan and saffron. Add the other whole sprig of thyme in the middle for decoration. Return both tin and tray to the oven for 35 minutes, rotating after 15 minutes to make sure it cooks evenly. You want it to be yellow-gold on top, with the merest hint of wobble in the middle. Allow to cool for 15 minutes, then remove from the tin. Serve while it’s just still warm, with a green salad on the side.

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