Published in the April issue of The
Sunday Times Travel Magazine
Few cities in Spain come with a spectacle as iconic as the Alhambra. Floodlit
high on its dark hill by night, it floats above Granada like an enchanted
palace.
In the soft light of early morning or the warm glow of sunset, it is just as
mesmerising. Step inside and it is even more so, especially in spring when
the gardens bloom and visitors are fewer.
And it makes the perfect introduction to a place spiced with complex history:
an emirate ruled from Damascus; capital of the extravagant Nasrid kings
(Spain’s last Muslim dynasty); and prize of the 1492 Catholic Reconquest.
In the narrow cobbled streets of the Albaicín – the old Moorish quarter in the
shadow of the Alhambra – you’ll be distracted by the heady smell of orange
blossom from hidden gardens; by tiny teashops, bright with coloured
lanterns, serving dainty Arabic pastries; and by atmospheric churches among
the remains of ancient city walls.
The city has a talent for enjoying every minute to the full. Squares ringed
with cafes and flower sellers invite you to people-watch idly from breakfast
(over chewy battered churros and thick Spanish drinking chocolate) to tapas
time. At this hour, lanes deserted for much of the day erupt into life, and
each round of gin tonica brings more free mop-up snacks: croquetas de jamón
(ham croquettes), or albóndigas (juicy meatballs in tomato sauce). Darkness
ignites flamenco, at its fiery, passionate best in the subterranean nooks of
the Sacromonte district.
It’s a ritual that draws you inexorably, filling you with wine, spirits and
searing song. Recover the following morning in the steamy silence of an
old-style bath house – just one more way to soak up the unique pleasures of
this charismatic Spanish city.
AT A GLANCE
£3,000 BUYS YOU: A beautiful hand-crafted flamenco guitar in
rosewood from one of Granada’s expert luthiers – though sadly not the
ability to play it… HERE COMES SUMMER: One of the most popular
drinks in the tapas bars is a tinto de verano (‘summer red’, usually
shortened to verano): an easy-drinking mixture of red wine and lemonade. Too
sweet? A chilled draught beer – or caña – slips down nicely, too… NOT
JUST FOR BUNNIES: Semana Santa – Holy Week – is celebrated in the run-up
to Easter with passion, processions and parties in Granada. If you really
want to show penitence, follow the route barefoot.
TOTALLY MOORISH
Take it nice and slow round the rambling Alhambra palace (Calle Real de
la Alhambra; 00 34 902 441221, www.alhambra-patronato.es;
£7.50). Founded as a fortress in the ninth century, it grew in size and
splendour over the following 500 years of Muslim rule. Everywhere you wander
in this Islamic citadel there’s something to captivate: crane your neck for
elaborate wood ceilings and marble capitals; eyes peeled for tiled, carved
facades and courtyards with pools of water reflecting the buildings. Arrange
a tour with city-walk specialists Cicerone (www.ciceronegranada.com)
and you’ll enjoy it even more.
Idle in the candlelit Moorish-style bath house Aljibe de San Miguel (Calle
San Miguel Alta 41; 00 34 958 522867, www.aljibesanmiguel.es;
£20 for two hours). It’s a sensitive remodel, with a splash of coloured
tiles among the rough columns and bare brick walls. Float in the hot pools,
cool off with a tinglingly cold plunge, then submit to a 15-minute massage
with scented oils, to a soundtrack of soft music and running water.
Granada is sheer magic.
An absolute must to have a guide for the exquisite bliss of the Alhambra and its garden representative of paradise. You will at long last discover the role played by the sound of running water.
kerstin, paris, france